Monocle #157

Monocle’s October issue is all about making an effort, whether that's designing a distinctive uniform for your business, decking out your apartment so that hosting is easy or sharpening up your autumn style. We cover it all. Plus: Will Brazil stick or twist as election day nears?

Issue 157
October 2022

    At the front
-Editor’s letter: From the fate of Europe’s disappearing villages to the modern dress codes of America’s southern states, this issue celebrates the transformative effects of smartening up and making an extra effort. Be a force for good, writes editor in chief Andrew Tuck.
-The Opener: Diplomatic gifting, lacy pants for men and a chilly take on southern hemisphere heating. Plus: South Korean popstar Eric Nam goes global.
-Decisive moments: Andre D Wagner chronicles the twists and turns of life on New York’s streets, focusing his lens on its characters and contrasts. Monocle tags along.
-Active elements: The Indian architect explains why he considers air, water and light to be as important to his creative process as bricks and mortar.
-My cabinet: Nick Wakeman, designer of effortlessly stylish clothing, introduces Studio Nicholson’s team, from its marketing director to its Soho shop manager.
    The Agenda: Global briefings
-Small host cities: Small cities such as Katowice, and Eugene show the benefits of hosting big events.
-Affairs: Hungary and Serbia’s pro-Russian posturing, Sweden’s new election technology and an Istanbul ferry terminal reopens.
-Comment: With the Inflation Reduction Act, Joe Biden showed the value of political experience.
-Business: Iberia’s new uniforms, the South African brand that converts sea waste into clothing and a chat with Marriott CEO Anthony Capuano.
-Culture: Public service broadcasting with Mexico City’s Loot radio, Euroman magazine’s editor in chief and the National Opera of Ukraine.
-Urbanism: The fate of Friendship Park, which straddles the border, hangs in the balance.
-Design: Canberra’s new public installation and Nolan Giles on the joy of low-impact second homes.
    Global views: Long reads
-Back to the land: Europeans have flocked to cities but what remains of the villages they left behind? In Spain, we meet the folk fighting to resurrect forgotten communities.
-Fork in the road: As former president Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva attempts to turn his lead in the polls to success in Brazil’s forthcoming elections, Jair Bolsonaro is in the line of fire. But as we find out on the campaign trail, support for the right-wing incumbent remains strong – and voters haven’t forgotten Lula’s corruption charges. Which way will Brazil turn next?
-Plucky upstart: While Croatia has experienced a tourism boom, its third-largest city has forged its own unique path, building on its coastal location and can-do attitude to welcome a wave of businesses – big and small.
-High fibre: Finland has unexpectedly become a world leader in sustainable textile production, with companies pioneering new and sometimes secret technologies.
-Person of interest: With a CV boasting leadership positions at leading luxury brands, Chabi Nouri has made a big leap to take on a new role as a private equity partner with Mirabaud. She explains why there’s money to be made from sustainability.
-Stepping up: From his new office at Nike’s HQ, the design chief of the world’s leading sports brand reveals its plans for the future of products that bear the famous swoosh.
-Take cover: From aprons and kitchen whites to front-of-house outfits, the storied Spanish business providing trusty hospitality workwear is busier than ever.
-Show time: It is easier than ever to see live entertainment on the small screen but nothing compares to being there. We visit three venues that add an extra sprinkle of stardust.
-Reclaiming the city: Renewed and refreshed by the arrival of the Manifesta biennale, the venues in Kosovo’s capital are propelling its art scene forwards.
-Catching sparks: From a historical novel about identity in a time of plague to retro-Persian electro music secretly recorded in Istanbul, we survey the brightest of the cultural highlights to come.
-Great and small: For almost a century, Leica has been a pioneer in camera design. Now it’s broadening its focus.
-Do come in: Lake Zürich is the alluring backdrop to an elegantly comfortable apartment, where everything – down to the smallest detail – has been carefully considered to make guests feel instantly at home.
-Style directory: Autumn is all about more – more layers, more options, more fun. So embrace the impending elemental challenges with a sense of excitement, knowing that the right clothes will see you conquer them with ease. We bring you a timely update from some of our favourite menswear brands and profile makers who are exploring new materials while honouring craft traditions, pushing boundaries, championing young designers and investing in best-in-class retail. Be excited about your wardrobe again.
-Trendsetting trio: These three fashion trailblazers are looking beyond established practices to bring alternative perspectives and a viable future to the business of making and selling clothes.
-Due south: Ten-gallon hats and spurs might define the clothes of the Deep South but a more modern look is reimagining this glorious heritage. We meet the designers and retailers creating a new Southern style.
-Power dressing: Good jackets make men stand tall, change their silhouettes and help them to stand out from the crowd.
-Socks appeal: If you’re in Japan and need hosiery for any occasion, there’s only one place to shop. Tabio have shaped the market in its own image. We find out how and ask where it’s treading next.
-The in-betweeners: Yes, it’s autumn but there will still be days when the sun shines. Just make sure that you have layers to add when the temperature drops – plus options for smarter occasions.
-Vine intervention: We follow the famed French wine route and meet the food-focused entrepreneurs who are shaking up the area’s traditions.
-Bon appétit: Pasta like you’ve never tasted before – Japanese style, plus an Italian family coffee house in Sydney, cocktails on the beach in the Algarve and the pioneers bringing aperitivo culture to the UK: just a taster of the culinary delights we present for your delectation this month.
-Streets Ahead: A clutch of fresh independent businesses has opened in the neighbourhood along Joo Chiat Road, bringing a refreshing burst of modernity to the old-school area.
-Here to stay?If you’re looking for a place to lay your head in Mallorca, New York or Vienna, we have word on some cracking new openings that we think you’ll love. And if you’re not heading to these destinations soon, keep this prized knowledge in your back pocket for your next trip.
-Inspect a gadget: Devices to keep your champagne bubbly and your phone charged, plus the latest Sony phone and Apple laptop.
-Top of the treeA beguiling Bali hotel nestled in the jungle. Take a leaf out of its book.
-Never stop learning: The folk who are perfecting new skills, from surfing to ceramics, no matter their age – and helping others to do so too.